Logroño, tapas and retracing the steps of my university years

We spent four amazing days in Logroño, a small city in La Rioja, the region known for its wine production. This is not a city on the top of many travellers’ lists, but it’s where I came to do a semester abroad when I was in university. This is actually the second time I’ve come back. The first was in 2007 with my brother. I was pretty excited to go back for nostalgic reasons and because this city is especially fun in the summer.

The city has a population of about 150,000, is on a lovely river called the Ebro, includes a university, an old city and is on the French route of the Camino de Santiago.

Perhaps what it’s best known for, is its tapas bars. The experience of going for tapas here is like nowhere else I’ve ever been. While in most places in Spain, you go to a bar and order a few different tapas you want to try, here, things are a bit different. The main tapas bars are all in one area of the old city, along about four connecting streets; the most famous one is called Calle Laurel. There are no cars, and in the evenings, these streets are flooded with people, who walk from bar to bar, trying each establishments’ “especialidad” or specialty. While most bars have multiple options, some only have one, like the famous mushrooms, which are doused in oil, salt and garlic and piled on top of each other over a piece of bread, with a tiny shrimp on the very top. It arrives piping hot and the bread gets deliciously soggy from all the oil.

The bar is packed, but you can also order from the window, along with a small beer or glass of wine, and the best pace to eat and drink it is outside, taking in the sights and sounds of the street. This experience allows you to hop from bar to bar, trying the best options in each place.

We spent a lot of time here in the evenings eating lots of different tapas.

It’s such a great way to try different foods, and it’s wonderful for kids, because while they are waiting for their food, they can hang out in the street rather than sit and wait. There are tables set up outside and it’s lively, less hot and less crowded than indoors.You eat and drink standing up.

Both kids loved the tortilla de patata and any meat on a stick.

I just love the experience, the variety and the vibe. What better way to try a bunch of different foods and stretch your legs in between each course?

We went all four nights we were here, starting around 8pm and finishing up around 10:30pm, just as things were really starting to pick up. The crowds were insane. I tried to capture it in a photo but you can’t really get the sense of it unless you’re there.

On our last night, a Sunday, it was much quieter.

What else did we do in Logroño, you ask, other than eat tapas? We took it easy during the daytime. We did homeschool and went to playgrounds. We also attended a wine and music festival one afternoon, hung out along the Ebro and in the old city.

On our last evening, we climbed to the top of the cathedral tower and were treated to an amazing view …

And suddenly the bells started ringing!

I was very sad to leave, but honestly could probably not handle any more nights on the Laurel! We are in need of a bit of a detox…